Road Tripping Through the West, Part One: Rocky Mountain National Park

Last month, Max and I spent two weeks road tripping, camping, and hiking through Colorado, Arizona, and Utah. The first stop on our adventure was Rocky Mountain National Park. This was my second time being above 12,000 ft. elevation (the first time was while Backpacking the Wind River Range of Wyoming) and the first time I had spent an extended amount of time above 11,000 ft elevation.

We camped in Estes Park, sharing a campsite with a small herd of deer and a bunny who joined us in the evenings.

Camping in Estes Park, Colorado

We explored Trail Ridge Road, the historic Old Fall River Road, and Bear Lake Road in the park, doing many short hikes along the way. Strong gusts of bitterly cold wind battered us above the treeline, making me thankful that I had brought a winter hat, gloves, and a bandanna to cover my face!

Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Mountain views in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
The view from 12,000 ft elevation in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
hiking up to 12,000 ft elevation in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Mountains with a dusting of snow in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Alpine tundra and mountains in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Mountains in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Bear Lake,  Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
Admiring the view in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

We were surrounded by a vast silence with only the sound of the wind and the call of elk bugling in the distance as we took in the massive scale of our surroundings.

Bull elk in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

The next day we woke up to a frost-covered tent and clear blue skies. We decided to take a hike up to Twin Sisters Peaks, a steep but popular hike up to 11,413 ft elevation on the eastern side of the park, surrounded by Roosevelt National Forest. Along the way up, we picked our way across the wreckage left by a huge mudslide that wiped out parts of the trail during the floods of 2013.

Just below the summit, we came across the sad scene of a man who had collapsed and died on the trail. His friend and some other hikers were performing CPR as a rescue helicopter circled, looking for a place to land. Sadly, it was too late to save him. We sat awkwardly bunched up for a while with a growing group of other hikers who had been behind us on the trail, wishing that there was some way that we could help.

Helicopter rescue on the Twin Sisters hike in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

As more paramedics started to arrive, the man’s friend encouraged everyone to continue on. Feeling that it was best to get out of the way, we hiked the short remaining distance to the summit. From the summit we had panoramic views of the Estes Park valley and the Continental Divide, but it was a little bittersweet, and we didn’t stay long.

View from the summit of the Twin Sisters hike in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

We had been considering staying a third day in Rocky Mountain National Park, but decided that this was a sign that it was time to hit the road again. The next day we set out for Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve.

Craters of the Moon

I spent a long weekend with my husband Max in Craters of the Moon National Monument in March. The snow had just melted, and the campground and trails were mostly empty. We had this vast, otherworldly high desert landscape mostly to ourselves. Picking a campsite in a recessed area with plenty of windbreak saved our tent from getting overly brutalized from the high winds that picked up on our second day, although it didn’t stop the inside of our tent from filling up with sand. Note to self: always place a heavy rock on top of each tent stake in the desert, even if it doesn’t seem necessary.

Craters of the Moon campground

This mysterious land of lava fields and cinder cones was designated as a National Monument in 1924. Just 100 years ago, it was still largely unknown and unexplored by anyone except the Northern Shoshone. The sunsets and sunrises were particularly spectacular. Warm sunlight and cold air. I expected to have company at these beautiful spots, but we were the only ones there each time.

Golden hour in Craters of the Moon
golden hour and long shadows in Craters of the Moon
cinder cones and mountain views in Craters of the Moon

Our hikes took us through volcanic moonscapes, and past enormous craters. When you get off the short road that travels through a small corner of the park, and out onto the trails or into the backcountry, it becomes readily apparent how this wonderland got its name.

The landscape at Craters of the Moon in Idaho
A crater and volcanic rocks in Craters of the Moon

I was fascinated by the geology of the area. Lava erupted from this crater thousands of years ago, and then cinders piled up around it as they erupted explosively. There were never any steep mountain style volcanoes here the eruptions at Craters of the Moon were fissure eruptions, where lava came out of cracks in the ground. Craters of the Moon is located on a weak spot in the earth’s crust called the Great Rift, where there have been eight eruptions in the past 15,000 years. The cinder rocks were formed when gases that were dissolved in the magma came out of solution during an eruption, creating bubbles in the molten rock which were frozen in place when the rock cooled and solidified. Some of the small cinders are light enough to float on water!

Volcanic cinder rocks in Craters of the Moon, Idaho

Craters of the Moon also includes 43,243 acres of wilderness. In 1970 Congress recognized the exceptional qualities of the now-protected area by designating it as the first wilderness area in any national park. We hiked some of The Wilderness Trail before being blown about so much by gale-force gusts that we decided to come back and explore the wilderness some more on another, less windy, day. At over 1,100 square miles (more than 750,000 acres), this huge park has plenty of space to explore. It is almost as large as the state of Rhode Island!

The view along the Craters of the Moon Wilderness Trail
The view along the Craters of the Moon Wilderness Trail